Many a tourist have heard and been to the most well known Mexico destinations, such as Cancun, Mexico City or Cabo. Only a short and often a direct flight from most American cities, Mexico is an easy choice to escape the deadfull cold of winter. Its warm and sunny weather, friendly and welcoming people as well as comparatively low prices make it a popular vacation choice.
But there is more to the country than the manicured resorts, artificial beaches and golf courses created for the Westerners. If you want to see the real Mexico, its true culture, its food, the loud fiestas and all else in its natural state then visit any of the smaller Spanish colonial towns dotted throughout the map. One of them is charming Puerto Vallarta, located in the Banderas Bay on the West Coast. Little knowm hidden treasure not so long ago, it has become a popular destination for fine dining, night life, seaside activities and even real estate shopping in the last few years.
We visited Vallarta several years ago and fell in love with the quaint old town. Its crooked cobble stone streets, houses leaning onto each other, beautiful beaches and welcoming locals make you want to return. There is some utterly audacious sense of festive carelessness in the air - here you leave everthing behind and enjoy the moment, if only for a few days. It is a simple, happy town.
There are plenty of accommodations varying in price and location. Many stay in the new town of Nuevo Vallarta, featuring modern and spacious resorts, golf courses and marinas. We prefer the old town of Zona Romantica where everything is within a walking distance, from beaches to restaurants, night clubs, cafes and shopping. I particularly enjoy the lush tropical open air lounges of Villa Merceds, a boutique hotel perfectly located a block away from the town's most popular beach Playa los Muertos.
Naturally you arrive here to spend some time on the beach. Get your towels, sunscreen and bathing suits ready - the water is warm and typically calm. Did I mention vendors? Almost anything your heart desires - a drink, a snack, an icy pina colada, freshly shucked oysters, shrimp screwers, souvenirs, sunglasses, rugs and certain illegal substances will be brought to you for a reasonable fee. Cash only.
There is no shortage of dining choices in town. By night the beach turns into one continuous dinner party with tables perched straight into the sand, complete with tikka torches and freelancing musicians ready to entertain you with Mexican songs. The options off the beach are equally interesting if not more diverse. We enjoyed a delicious mole at El Mole de Jovita where the sauce was so good we asked for a second serving of just the mole itself. To my own surprise I enjoyed its distinct chocolate flavor, which worked well with notes of prunes and spices. Pictured here is a stuffed poblano pepper on a bed of rice.
One of Vallarta's best known attractions is the beautiful Malecón Boardwalk along the seaside. It starts midtown and continues for quite a few blocks, offerning expansive views of Banderas Bay, its surrounding mountains and some distant new developments in Nuevo Vallarta. It is a lovely leisurely stroll after a good meal.
Half way through the Boardwalk is a bridge, connecting it to an island on the river passing through the town center. It is home to several restaurants and a shopping alley with any kinds of souvenirs imaginable. As we were passing by an honest vendor cheerfully greeted us with "Come inside! We have everything you do not need!"
At the end of the island you will find a garden which leads to a traditional social square and, appropriately, a Cultural Center.
The Boardwalk concludes with the famous Malecón, a steel structure located in the ocean. A pedestrian walk leads you to a circle around its peak and a boat dock, offering unobstructed ocean views of the bay. Always a spot for local fishermen and oyster divers during the day, at night the Malecón becomes a romantic refuge for couples, dimly lit in colorful lights and bathing in gentle sound of never ending waves.
Images of Vallarta often feature the spires of its beautiful Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, located off the town's center square: a handsome structure with elegant and well kept interior. It is worth a stop for a break from hot afternoon sun and a quiet moment of reflection.
Lush with tropical green, charming and festive - Puerto Vallarta deserves its popularity. Fall through early Spring are the best times to visit for dry and pleasant weather. Beautiful scenery, expansive ocean views, plentiful activities, authentic regional cuisine and lively beaches are what makes us visit here almost every year.
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